Crotone, Calabria: Land of onions, cheeses and coldcuts

When I first set foot in Crotone, a charming coastal town in Calabria, I knew I was in for a treat. This place isn’t just beautiful; it’s a hidden gem of Italian gastronomy. Every corner, every market stall, and every meal here told a story steeped in tradition. I found myself captivated by Crotone’s unique foods, each bite a celebration of its local flavors and the passion of the people who make them.

The onions were one of my first discoveries. Crotone is famous for its cipolla di Tropea (Tropea onion), a sweet red onion grown in the region’s sun-drenched fields. Unlike the sharp bite you might expect from an onion, these have a mild, almost delicate sweetness. Locals prize them for their versatility, using them in everything from fresh salads to rich, slow-cooked sauces. I quickly understood why; their flavor was transformative, adding a layer of complexity to any dish they touched. I even found myself munching on them raw, something I would never do at home! They were that good.

Cipolle di Tropea.

Then, there was the cheese. Calabria may not be as internationally famous for its cheeses as some other Italian regions, but Crotone has a few standouts. Take the butirro, for instance a soft, buttery cheese with a gooey interior that melts in your mouth.

Butirro.

And let’s not forget pecorino crotonese, a sheep’s milk cheese that’s aged to perfection. The nutty, slightly sharp flavor was unlike any pecorino I’d had before, and I couldn’t resist bringing a wedge home. Tasting it on its own was an experience, but locals often use it to enrich pasta sauces or serve it alongside figs, a match made in heaven.

Pecorino crotonese.

The cold cuts, too, were unforgettable. Calabrians have a way with cured meats, and Crotone is no exception. I sampled soppressata, a spicy, cured sausage with a distinctively bold flavor. Unlike other Italian cured meats, which can be subtle, the soppressata here has an unmistakable punch thanks to the locally grown Calabrian chilies.

Soppressata.

And then there was the nduja, a spreadable salami made with pork, hot peppers, and spices. It’s smoky, spicy, and just a bit tangy. I loved spreading it on warm bread, savoring its rich, complex taste. This is comfort food at its finest.

Nduja.

Exploring Crotone’s cuisine, I couldn’t miss the local markets. Wandering through them, I felt like a kid in a candy store. Stalls overflowed with fresh produce, from those legendary Tropea onions to juicy tomatoes and vibrant greens. Vendors offered samples of cheeses and cured meats, each piece telling a story of tradition and craftsmanship. I struck up conversations with the stallholders, learning that many of them had been selling here for decades, passing down their expertise through generations.

Eating in Crotone isn’t just about the food; it’s about connection to the land, to tradition, and to the people. Every bite felt like an invitation into a world of flavors where the sea, the sun, and the history of Calabria all come together on the plate. Whether it’s the sweetness of the onions, the boldness of the cold cuts, or the richness of the cheeses, the food here tells the story of Crotone. And after experiencing it, I know I’ll be telling that story for years to come.

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